16th-Century Celtic Clothing Styles By Gabriel Brown

[Dept of PMM Cut of Style]

Celtic clothing of the 16th century remained relatively unchanged from the centuries that preceded it. The Irish favored functional clothing for centuries and were not as enamored with fashion as their English lords and neighbors were. They were also not as wealthy. Celtic clothing was simple and sturdy, made out of linen and wool. Unfortunately, these materials did not withstand the test of time well, and few examples of Celtic clothing have been preserved.

Leine

The leine was a traditional Irish shirt, usually made of linen. Both men and women wore it. The bottom hung slightly below the waist if pants were worn; if not, it would hang roughly to the knee. Leines often indicated social standing, and the wealthier you were, the finer the fabric used to make the garment. Those Irish who could afford it also favored dying the shirt yellow with saffron dye.
Men's Clothes

In addition to the leines, men wore pants known as trius or trews. Made of wool and snugly fitting, these pants had buttons up the lower legs to the knee. The inar was a type of jacket. It was made of wool and sometimes had a pleated skirt to provide some leg covering. Irish men also wore a brat, or cloak, which was a rectangular cut of wool. The longer versions showed greater wealth. They were usually trimmed with fringe borders.
Women's Clothing

Women wore clothing similar to men but with a couple of additional pieces. Still wearing the leine --- a much longer ankle length one --- as a foundation, women then put on a long dress over it. Women also wore a modified brat sometimes resembling a cloak, but often like a shawl. Women wore hats as well. Less is known about Celtic women's clothing as there was much contact with Irish men through military encounters, but women rarely left the island.
O'Neal, Prince of Ulster

During the reign of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I, saffron was outlawed as a dye. Also cloaks and long hair were denounced as signs of thieves, rebels and outlaws. In 1562 O'Neal, Prince of Ulster attended the court of Queen Elizabeth I with his guard. They wore no proper court hats and sported bared hatchets and uncut hair. They wore shaggy cloaks and shirts with long sleeves dyed yellow with saffron, the spitting image of 16th century Celts.