1400–1500 in fashion part 3

[Dept of PMM Artists & things]

Headgear

Young Italian men wear brimless caps, The Betrothal, c. 1470^[27]

Early in the century, the hood remained a common component of dress for all classes, although it was frequently worn around the neck as a cowl or twisted into the fantastical shapes of the chaperon. Hats of various styles—tall-crowned with small brims or no brims at all, or low-crowned with wider brims pulled to a point in front—began to compete with the draped chaperon, especially in Italy.^[22] A brimless scarlet cap became nearly universal for young Florentines in particular, and was widely worn by older men and those in other cities.

In mid-century, a bowl haircut with the hair shaved at the back of the neck was stylish. In Germany, and briefly in Venice, a wide shock of frizzy blond hair was often seen on images of lovers (and angels) in the later part of the century—less often in portraits. By the end of the century, shoulder-length hair became fashionable, a trend that would continue into the early 16th century.

Style gallery 1400–1450

1 – 1405–10	2 – 1400–19	3 – c. 1425	4 – 1433
5 – c.1435	6 – 1440	7 – 1442	8 – 1447–8

1. The lord on the left wears a long figured houppelande with full sleeves lined in fur, while the men of his household wear short solid-coloured gowns with parti-coloured or matching hose. Several of the men wear hoods around their necks, and some wear hats. France, Livre de Chasse, 1405–10.
2. John the Fearless (d. 1419), Duke of Burgundy and father of Philip the Good, wears a fur-lined black houppelande with high neck and dagged sleeves over a red doublet. His bag-shaped hat has a rolled brim and is decorated with a jewel. Early 15th century.
3. Young man wears a draped chaperon and a dark gown over a reddish doublet. Note the characteristic high front neckline compared to the back neckline, Florence, 1425.
4. A chaperon worn in elaborate twists, 1433.
5. Chancellor Rolin wears a bold floral patterned gown with fur trim and bag sleeves. The "bowl" haircut with the back of the neck shaved was popular in mid-century.
6. Hose or chausses worn with braies and tied to a belt, 1440.
7. Back view of a knee-length Italian cioppa or houppelande of figured silk. One sleeve is turned back to the shoulder to reveal the lining and the doublet sleeve beneath. Sienna, 1442.
8. Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, wears an elaborately draped chaperon with a black-on-black figured silk short gown with width at the shoulder, 1447–48.

Style gallery 1450–1500

1 – 1460s	2 – late 1460s	3 – 1467–70	4 – 1468–70
5 – c. 1470	6 – 1478	7 – 1487	8 – 1498

1. Back view of the conjoined hose of the fifteenth century. The man on the right has slashed undersleeves. Note V-shaped back neckline, 1460s.
2. France, late 1460s Short doublet, heavily pleated, with chaperon and thigh boots.
3. Antoine, Bastard of Burgundy, all in black, wears a soft "sugarloaf" hat and a doublet laced at the neck with a collar. He wears the emblem of the Order of the Golden Fleece around his neck, 1467–70.
4. A prince (right) wears a long floral patterned gown, while his attendants wear very short doublets with hose. All wear long pointed shoes, France, 1468–70.
5. Parti-coloured hose are worn with a sideless gown belted at the waist. Italy, c. 1470.
6. Giuliano de' Medici wears the high collarless Italian style at the neck, 1478.
7. Maarten van Nieuvenhove wears an open gown fastened across his chest with pairs of ribbon ties. Beneath the gown he wears a brown velvet doublet with sleeves buttoned to the wrist. Bruges, 1487.
8. At the very end of the century, Albrecht Dürer's self-portrait shows the influence of Italian fashion: His low-necked shirt or chemise of fine linen, gathered and trimmed with a band of gold braid or embroidery, is worn under an open-fronted doublet and a cloak tied over one shoulder. His hair is worn long, under a draped pointed hat with a tassel, 1498.

Footwear

During most of the fifteenth century, both men and women wore narrow shoes with pointed toes. Very long pointed shoes, called poulaines or crackowes (after their reputed Polish origin), were popular early in the period.^[28] They stayed in fashion longer in Northern Europe. Pattens, or wooden clogs with cloth straps over the instep, were worn over poulaines and other soft shoes outdoors and in public areas (see picture below and photo). A blunt toed-shoe began to appear in the last decades of the century.

1 – 1434

2 – mid-century

3 – c. 1450

4 – 1475–80

1. Pattens from the Arnolfini Portrait, 1434
2. Servant wears extreme poulaines, from an illustrated manuscript of Renaud de Montauban.
3. Man reaping grain wears ankle-high shoes over hose rolled at the knee. Working-class shoes changed only slowly over the centuries. C. 1450
4. Middle-class costume features ankle-high shoes with a natural toe. The man on the right wears pattens, 1475–80.

Children's fashion

1 – 1447–48

2 – 1461

3 – 1474

4 – 1476–78

1. Charles, son of Philip III of Burgundy, wears a gold floral figured short gown, black hose, and pointed shoes with pattens underneath, and a "pudding-basin" haircut 1447–48.
2. Young boy holding a teething ring wears a short gown with a sash and open-toed shoes, Italy, 1461.
3. Two Gonzaga princes wear the family colours with parti-coloured hose with ornamental points (laces).
4. Margherita Portinari a banker's daughter of Bruges^[29] wears a green gown laced up the front with a single lace over a dark kirtle. Her hair is worn loose under a black cap with a pendant jewel, Netherlands, 1476–78.

Working class clothing

1 – 1405–10	2 – 1410	3 – 1410	4 – 1410
5 – 1437	6 – late 1440s	7 – 1475–80	8 – 1494

1. Older huntsmen wear looser gowns belted at the waist while younger men wear fashionable short gowns fitted through the body and belted at the hip. The higher-ranking figures wear less practical clothes and chaperons, Livre de Chasse.
2. Peasant reaping in linen braies and shirt, Les Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry.
3. Man and woman shearing sheep. She wears a black hood with a long liripipe and a scrip or bag at her waist. He wears a floppy black hat tied under the chin, Les Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry.
4. Women raking hay work barefoot and wear their kirtles looped up over long-sleeved linen smocks, Les Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry.
5. Workmen on a dock wear short gowns with hats, Italy, 1437.
6. The very poor of Florence receive alms in well-worn and basic versions of the clothes of the more prosperous.
7. Workman showing fastening of the hose to the short doublet by means of points or ties, 1475–80.
8. Venetian gondoliers wear open-fronted, slashed doublets and hose divided into upper and lower sections, 1494.