Herbal Desserts For Valentine's Day

[Dept of PMM Artists & things]

By Julia M. Usher

A heart-shaped box of heavenly chocolates? A bundle of fresh flowers and herbs? A sentimental note from a secret admirer? Which of Cupid’s arrows will you use to woo your special someone this Valentine’s Day?

My advice: Serve one of these desserts and your sweetheart will fall head over heels. Every recipe contains chocolate, a favorite aphrodisiac. Plus, each is infused with the intoxicating bouquet of a signature herb, hand-picked using Victorian floral dictionaries to deliver a specific sentiment. Whether your relationship is just budding or fully blossomed, you’ll find the perfectly scripted recipe to share with the one you love.

Is there a new love in your life? Try White Chocolate-Rose Geranium Ice Cream or Cocoa-Mint Sandwich Cookies for a subtle hint of friendliness or preference. If you’ve dated a while and want to move matters forward, make a statement of serious intentions with a basil-infused berry parfait. Or, if you’re ready for lasting commitment, choose either Milk Chocolate-Lavender Panna Cotta or Chocolate-Rosemary Torte to deliciously declare your loyalty.

Lemon-Thyme Shortbread

By Julia M. Usher

Though thyme stands for “courage,” you’ll need none of that as you bite into these buttery delights. They’re irresistible plain or dipped in chocolate.

MAKES ABOUT 25 2-INCH ROUND COOKIES

• 1/2 cup blanched slivered almonds
• 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves, stems removed
• 1/2 tablespoon grated lemon zest
• 2 cups all-purpose flour, divided
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1/4 cup powdered sugar
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• 1 teaspoon pure lemon extract
• All-purpose flour, for dusting work surface

Garnish

• 6 to 8 ounces semisweet chocolate, tempered
• Slivered almonds (at least 25)

1. In food processor with metal blade, pulse almonds, thyme and lemon zest with 2 tablespoons flour until finely ground but not pasty, about 20 seconds. Sift together remaining flour and salt in medium bowl. Add ground nut-herb mixture and stir. Set aside. In electric mixer with paddle attachment, cream butter and sugars until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn mixer to low and gradually add flour mixture, mixing until just combined. Stir in vanilla and lemon extracts. Flatten dough into disk and wrap tightly in plastic. Chill 2 hours or until very firm.

2. Preheat oven to 300 degrees with rack in center. Line two cookie sheets with parchment paper. Roll chilled dough on lightly floured surface to about ¼-inch thickness, using as little flour as possible. Cut out 2-inch rounds with cookie cutter and place ½ inch apart on cookie sheets. Position sheet on center rack and bake 35 to 40 minutes, or until bottoms are lightly browned. Immediately transfer to racks and cool completely before garnishing.

3. To garnish: Set another cooling rack over cookie sheet. Dip half of each cookie in tempered chocolate. Place on rack, so sheet catches chocolate drippings. Before chocolate sets, place an almond sliver or two on top of each cookie. Allow to fully set before serving. Store in airtight containers at room temperature up to 1 week.

White Chocolate-Rose Geranium Ice Cream

By Julia M. Usher

Rose geranium by itself signifies “preference.” Paired with a pink rose petal, this delightful dish takes on the deeper symbolism of “a fondness for someone lovely and graceful.” With or without the petal garnish, this ice cream will send a sweet message. Rose geranium is not usually available in grocery stores, but try your nearby garden store or online (www.linglesherbs.com) for starter plants, which can be grown indoors any time of year.

MAKES APPROXIMATELY 3 1/2 CUPS, OR SEVEN 1/2 CUP SERVINGS

• 1 1/2 cups whole milk
• 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
• 10 to 12 fresh rose geranium leaves, coarsely chopped
• 4 large egg yolks
• 3/8 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
• 6 ounces white chocolate, finely chopped
• 1/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Garnish

• Pink rose petals (at least 7)
• Rose geranium leaves, whole (at least 7)

1. Bring milk, cream and geranium to simmer over medium heat. Turn off heat and steep about 20 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, whisk eggs and sugar in bowl. Place white chocolate and vanilla extract in another bowl. Set aside.

3. Strain cream into egg mixture, pressing excess liquid from leaves. Whisk to combine. Pour into saucepan and cook over medium, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens, 5 to 10 minutes. Do not boil. Immediately remove from heat and strain into bowl containing chocolate and vanilla. Stir until chocolate is completely melted. Cover surface flush with plastic wrap and cool to room temperature.

4. Refrigerate until mixture reaches 40 to 45 degrees, about 3 hours, or place mixture in shallow bowl in freezer for 20 to 30 minutes. Pour chilled mixture into ice cream machine and churn following manufacturer’s instructions. (Many ice cream machines have bowls that must be thoroughly frozen first.) Mixture should churn to relatively stiff consistency within 30 minutes. For a firmer consistency, turn churned ice cream into a small chilled bowl, cover with plastic wrap and freeze another 1 to 2 hours before serving.

5. Serve in chilled dishes and garnish with rose petal and geranium leaf.

Herbal Desserts For Valentine's Day: Milk Chocolate-Lavender Panna Cotta

By Julia M. Usher

Lavender is for “loyalty.” And a loyal following you will have once you serve this silky custard. If you’re a novice at combining herbs with sweets, this is a safe place to start. The understated lavender bouquet adds a delicate floral suggestion, especially when paired with rich milk chocolate. MAKES ABOUT FIVE 3/4 CUP SERVINGS

• 1/4 cup cold water
• 1 envelope powdered unflavored gelatin (about 2 1/4 teaspoons)
• 1 cup whole milk
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 2 tablespoons plus 1/4 teaspoon dried lavender blossoms
• 5 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
• 8 ounces milk chocolate, finely chopped
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Garnish

• Whipped cream
• Fresh lavender sprigs (at least 5)

1. Pour water into top bowl of small double boiler. Sprinkle gelatin uniformly over water. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes until gelatin has completely absorbed water.

2. Meanwhile, combine milk, cream and lavender blossoms in saucepan. Bring to scalding point over medium heat and turn off. Steep about 30 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, melt gelatin over low heat on top of double boiler. Turn off heat once melted. Strain milk mixture into another saucepan, pressing excess fluid from blossoms. Place saucepan over low heat. Add chocolate and sugar, stirring constantly until chocolate melts and mixture is smooth. Remove pan from heat. Whisk in melted gelatin, making sure it is evenly distributed. Whisk in vanilla extract.

4. Strain mixture into container with pouring spout. Pour mixture into five 8- to 10-ounce wine glasses and refrigerate until cool, about 1 hour. Cover with plastic wrap and chill another 5 hours until completely set.

5. Garnish each dessert with dollop of whipped cream and sprig of fresh lavender, as desired.

White Chocolate-Basil Mousse and Strawberry Parfait

By Julia M. Usher

There’s no better way to signal your “serious intentions” than with this seriously delicious and showy sweet. A white chocolate pastry cream is infused with basil, lightened with whipped cream, and layered with a vibrant berry sauce. I’ve used strawberry, but blackberry or raspberry work equally well.

MAKES ABOUT FIVE 3/4 CUP SERVINGS

Strawberry sauce

• 8 ounces fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced
• 1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
• 4 to 5 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar, or to taste

White chocolate-basil mousse

• 1 cup loosely packed basil leaves, stems removed, coarsely chopped
• 3 cups heavy cream, divided
• 5 teaspoons cold water
• 1 teaspoon powdered unflavored gelatin
• 4 large egg yolks
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 4 ounces white chocolate, finely chopped
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• 2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest
• 3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar

Garnish (optional)

• Strawberry quarters (at least five)
• Small fresh basil leaves (at least five)

1. To make sauce, combine berries, zest and 2 to 3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar in food processor fitted with steel blade. Process until smooth. Add sugar to taste. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

2. To make mousse, combine basil and 2 cups cream in saucepan. Bring to scalding over medium heat. Turn off heat and steep about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, pour water into top of double boiler. Sprinkle gelatin uniformly over water. Let sit 5 to 10 minutes until gelatin has completely absorbed water. Melt over low heat on top of double boiler, then turn off heat.

3. Whisk yolks and sugar together. Whisk in flour. Strain cream mixture into yolk mixture, pressing excess fluid from leaves, and whisk to combine. Add white chocolate. Pour into clean saucepan and cook over medium heat. Stir slowly and constantly in a figure-eight pattern until chocolate has melted and mixture just comes to a boil. Note: A whisk can help break up lumps that naturally form in this 100-percent cream-based sauce. Do not whisk too aggressively or mixture may break. Strain chocolate mixture into large bowl. Immediately whisk in warm gelatin, grated orange zest and vanilla extract. Cover surface flush with plastic wrap and cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes.

4. Combine 1 cup cream and confectioners’ sugar in electric mixer fitted with whip attachment. Whip cream to soft peaks. Once chocolate mixture has cooled but not set, gently fold in whipped cream.

5. To assemble, pour mousse into large container with spout. Pour strawberry sauce into a container with spout. Fill five 8- to 10-ounce wine glasses halfway with mousse. Refrigerate until partially set, about 30 minutes.

6. Pour 2 to 3 tablespoons sauce on top of each dessert. Allow sauce to flow completely to sides of glass. Top off with remaining mousse, cover with plastic wrap and chill until completely set, about 6 hours. Garnish with strawberry quarter and basil leaf.

Chocolate-Rosemary Torte

By Julia M. Usher

Rosemary is the herb of remembrance, and rest assured, this is one unforgettable cake. Both its mousse filling and icing are infused with the pungent herb—if you prefer a less assertive rosemary flavor, simply reduce the quantity of herb in each recipe or omit it altogether from the icing.

MAKES ONE 8-INCH THREE-LAYER CAKE, ABOUT 16-20 SERVINGS

Chocolate-rosemary mousse

• 1/4 cup loosely packed rosemary leaves, stems removed
• 2 cups heavy cream, divided
• 6 large egg yolks
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1/4 cup water
• 12 ounces semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped and melted
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Chocolate fudge cake

• 2 1/4 cups sifted cake flour
• 2 teaspoons baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
• 2 1/4 cups firmly packed light brown sugar
• 3 large eggs, at room temperature
• 3 ounces unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped and melted
• 1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
• 1 cup sour cream, room temperature
• 1 cup boiling water
• 1 teaspoon instant espresso powder

Rosemary buttercream

• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup loosely packed rosemary leaves, stems removed
• 5 large egg whites, room temperature
• 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
• 1/2 cup light corn syrup
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Garnish (optional)

• Fresh rosemary sprigs (at least sixteen)

1. To make mousse, put rosemary and 1 cup cream in saucepan and bring to scalding over medium heat. Turn off heat and steep about 30 minutes. In electric mixer with whip attachment, whip yolks on high speed until light and fluffy. Meanwhile, bring sugar and water to boil in another saucepan over medium-high heat. Boil 1 to 2 minutes until thick and syrupy. Turn mixer down to medium and gradually pour sugar syrup into egg yolks in slow, steady stream, mixer running. Shut off mixer and scrape down sides, working quickly so heat of syrup does not cook yolks. Turn mixer back on and beat at high speed until thick and fluffy, 5 to 10 minutes. Turn egg mixture into large bowl. Add melted chocolate, butter and vanilla extract, whisking until smooth. Strain cream mixture into chocolate base, pressing out excess fluid from rosemary. Whisk until smooth. Place remaining 1 cup cream in clean bowl of electric mixer with whip attachment. Whip cream to soft peaks. Fold into chocolate-rosemary base until cream is uniformly distributed. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate several hours, until mousse is extremely firm. Note: A firmer mousse will make for much easier cake assembly later.

2. To make cake, move racks to lower third of oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Grease two 8-inch round cake pans. Line with parchment paper; grease and flour paper. Tap out excess flour and set pans aside. Stir flour, soda and salt together in bowl. Set aside. In electric mixer with paddle attachment, cream softened butter and brown sugar on medium-high until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each. Add melted chocolate and vanilla extract, mixing and scraping down sides to evenly incorporate chocolate. Add reserved flour mixture alternately with sour cream, beginning and ending with flour. Mix on low only enough to incorporate each addition (overmixing can lead to a tough, open-grained cake structure). Pour boiling water into measuring cup and stir in espresso powder to dissolve. Add immediately to cake batter and stir by hand until smooth and uniformly blended. Batter will be very loose. Divide batter evenly among pans, filling each no more than two-thirds full, as batter will rise. Bake about 45 minutes, or until skewer inserted in center comes out clean. Cool about 10 minutes, then invert cakes onto racks, remove pans and paper, and cool completely before filling.

3. To make buttercream, melt 1 stick butter in saucepan. Turn off heat, add rosemary and steep about 30 minutes. Beat egg whites and cream of tartar in electric mixer with whip attachment on medium-high until stiff. Meanwhile, combine corn syrup and sugar in another saucepan. Mix until sugar is completely coated with syrup. Bring sugar mixture to boil over medium-high heat. With mixer running on medium-high speed, pour hot sugar syrup into whipped egg whites in slow, steady stream. Beat until mixture has cooled, about 10 minutes. Strain melted butter into bowl to remove rosemary, pressing excess fluid from leaves. Add remaining 3 sticks softened butter and stir until homogeneous. Increase mixer to high and add rosemary-butter to meringue in small increments. Mixture will initially deflate, then turn grainy and eventually become glossy. If icing seems loose after last butter addition, refrigerate 10 to 15 minutes and beat again. Set aside until ready to use (refrigerate if not assembling cake immediately). If you refrigerate icing, soften to room temperature and beat again before spreading.

4. To assemble torte, trim any domes off cooled cake tops and split each cake into two, ½-inch thick layers. You will only need three layers, so fourth can be wrapped tightly in plastic and then foil and frozen up to 1 month. Fix bottom layer to 8-inch cake cardboard with dab of icing. Using pastry bag fitted with coupler, pipe mousse in concentric circles on top of cake. Level filling with spatula, add next layer of cake and mousse, and top with last cake layer. Trim cake back ¼ inch from edge of cardboard to leave room for icing. If mousse is soft or cake is difficult to work with, refrigerate 30 minutes before trimming. Spread buttercream on tops and sides of cake. Transfer to serving plate, and finish bottom with piped border. Serve immediately or refrigerate. Serve cake at room temperature, though, or buttercream will be hard. Garnish slices with sprig of rosemary.

Cocoa-Mint Sandwich Cookies

By Julia M. Usher

Extend a gesture of “friendliness” with these mint-infused cookie sandwiches. For an extra special Valentine’s Day touch, I’ve cut them into fluted rounds with a small heart “window” in each cookie top.

MAKES ABOUT THIRTY-SIZ 1 1/2-INCH ROUND SANDWICH COOKIES

White chocolate-mint mousse

• 1/2 cup loosely packed mint leaves, stems removed, coarsely chopped
• 1 cup heavy cream, divided
• 6 ounces white chocolate, finely chopped

Cocoa wafers

• 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 2 large eggs
• 1 teaspoon pure mint extract
• 1/2 cup unsweetened, alkalized cocoa powder
• 2 cups sifted all-purpose flour
• About 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, for dusting work surface
• 2 to 4 tablespoons granulated sugar, for sprinkling on cookie tops
• About 4 ounces semisweet chocolate, melted

1. To make mousse, place mint and 1/2 cup cream in saucepan and bring to scalding over medium heat. Turn off heat. Steep about 30 minutes. Strain cream mixture into another clean saucepan, pressing excess liquid from mint. Add chopped white chocolate to cream and place over low heat. Stir constantly just until chocolate is melted and mixture is very smooth. Transfer to medium bowl. Cover surface flush with plastic wrap and allow to cool to room temperature, about 40 minutes. Using an electric mixer with whip attachment, whip remaining cream to stiff peaks. Fold into chocolate mixture. Chill mousse 3 to 4 hours or until thick and creamy.

2. To make cookies, place butter and 1/2 cup sugar in electric mixer with paddle attachment. Cream until well blended, about 2 minutes. Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Scrape down sides of bowl. Continue to beat at high speed until light and fluffy, another 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in mint extract. Stir together cocoa powder and flour and combine with butter mixture, stirring just until evenly blended. Divide dough, shape into two disks and wrap each tightly in plastic wrap. Chill at least 4 hours or until dough is firm to touch. Meanwhile, with rack in center of oven, preheat to 350 degrees. Line two cookie sheets with parchment paper and set aside. On lightly floured work surface, roll out one disk of dough to about 1/8-inch thickness. Cut with 1 1/2-inch fluted round cookie cutter and transfer rounds to cookie sheet. Using 1/2-inch heart-shaped cookie cutter, cut a window in half of the cookies. These will become sandwich tops. Sprinkle evenly with granulated sugar. Bake 12 to 14 minutes, or until cookies are firm and lightly browned on bottoms. Remove to racks to cool. Repeat with second half of dough. Allow cookies to cool completely. Using a small knife, spread thin layer of melted chocolate on bottoms of windowless cookies and place cookie chocolate side up. Let chocolate set.

3. To assemble sandwiches, fit pastry bag with #10 round tip and fill halfway with mousse. Pipe small amount of mousse on top of set chocolate. Place cookie with window, right side-up, on top of mousse. Press gently to squeeze mousse to edges. Store unfilled cookies in airtight containers up to a week at room temperature. Filled cookies should be refrigerated, and are best served within 24 hours.