The Essence of Rosemary By Barbara Pleasant

[Dept of PMM Artists & things]

It’s been a tiring day, and the day’s not over yet. Need a little pick-me-up? Pinch a bit of rosemary, bruise it in your cupped hands, and breathe it in, slow and steady. Repeat three times.

Do you feel better now, as if a grateful little prayer just washed through your body? You have experienced one of the essences of rosemary, which scientists believe is related to carnosic acid, a potent antioxidant that could be a key to brain health. Carnosic acid also is one of the few antioxidants that serves the body in stages rather than all at once, so the benefits of a dinner of rosemary-encrusted roast turkey might extend far beyond the meal.

In the garden, rosemary contributes bee-pleasing blue blooms on sturdy, attractive plants with needle-like leaves. Rosemary’s green-gray hue combines easily with other herbs and perennials in garden beds, containers and bouquets. The upright forms make handsome evergreen hedges, while the creeping types can be used to spill gracefully over a stone wall or the edges of a terracotta planter. Wherever you grow rosemary, you’ll want it close at hand where you can enjoy its heavenly scent up-close and often.

Exploring the essence of rosemary is best done with fresh stems in hand, so if you have no plant yet, buy a fresh bunch at the store to try recipes like Rosemary and Cherry Focaccia. Mark where “The Rosemary Hall of Fame” describes 16 outstanding rosemary cultivars. Set aside a few long rosemary sprigs to sniff as you learn how to keep rosemary healthy through the winter. By the time the bunch is gone, you will know you simply cannot be without rosemary.

The Essence of Rosemary: Rosemary and Cherry Focaccia

By Barbara Pleasant

Serves 4

These individual focaccias are ideal for a holiday brunch or a not-too-sweet dessert. Add the cream cheese for extra richness or leave it off and pretend they’re on your diet.

• 1 tube store-bought pizza dough
• Olive oil for drizzling
• 4 teaspoons finely chopped rosemary
• 2 teaspoons orange or lemon zest
• 4 teaspoons brown sugar
• 4 tablespoons cream cheese (optional)
• 1½ cups frozen unsweetened tart cherries, thawed and thoroughly drained
• Confectioner’s sugar

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Coat a pizza stone or baking sheet with nonstick spray. Unroll the dough and divide it into 4 equal pieces. Roll or pat out each piece into a 5-inch round, pressing the center to create a slight indentation. Prick dough all over with tines of a fork.

2. Drizzle a small amount of olive oil onto each round and spread oil to coat surface. Top each round with 1 teaspoon rosemary, ½ teaspoon orange or lemon zest, and 1 teaspoon brown sugar.

3. Bake about 12 minutes, or until light golden-brown. Remove from oven and cool about 10 minutes. Spread with cream cheese, if using. Top with cherries, then dust generously with confectioner’s sugar. Serve warm.

Contributing editor Barbara Pleasant, author of The Whole Herb (Square One, 2004), writes and gardens at her home in Virginia.

The Essence of Rosemary: Lemony Rosemary Crumb Cake

By Barbara Pleasant

Makes one 8-inch round cake.

This simple little low-fat cake smells divine as it bakes. To dress it up for the holidays, add a few bright red raspberries or cranberries to the topping.

• 1¼ cups all-purpose flour
• ½ teaspoon baking powder
• ¼ teaspoon baking soda
• 1/8 teaspoon salt
• 2/3 cup sugar
• 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, minced, or ½ teaspoon dried
• 3 tablespoons cold butter, cut into small pieces
• Juice and rind of 1 lemon
• 1 large egg
• ½ cup buttermilk or plain yogurt

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Coat an 8-inch round cake pan with cooking spray. In a medium bowl, mix together flour, baking powder, soda, salt, sugar and rosemary. Add butter, cutting it in with a pastry blender or two knives until mixture resembles a coarse meal.

2. Use a fine grater to obtain about 1 teaspoon lemon rind. Mix rind into flour mixture. Remove 2/3 cup of this mixture to use as topping; set aside.

3. In a small bowl, beat egg with a fork. Mix in buttermilk or yogurt and lemon juice. Add egg mixture to flour mixture, and stir until well blended yet lumpy, about 100 strokes. Pour batter into prepared cake pan. Sprinkle crumb mixture evenly over top.

4. Bake 25 to 30 minutes. Cut into slices when cool. If desired, garnish with fresh lemon and rosemary.

Contributing editor Barbara Pleasant, author of The Whole Herb (Square One, 2004), writes and gardens at her home in Virginia.