How to Harvest, Dry, and Store Herbs by Rev. Carol A. Ingle (Raven)

[Dept of PMM Artists & things]

How to Harvest, Dry, and Store Herbs

Harvesting

Most herbs can be used fresh, dry, or fresh-frozen. The rule of thumb is to use twice as much of the fresh or frozen herb as the dried form (the dried herb being a more concentrated form).

Harvesting and drying herbs is not complicated. The key two words to keep in mind are volatile oil. It is this important part of the plant which is stored up mainly in the leaves, which gives the plant its aroma and taste. And it is this key ingredient which must be preserved in the drying process. Air drying is the simplest method and has been done in this manner since before forever. Food dehydrators take advantage of this principle by applying a gentle flow of air which hastens the process. A dehydrator is a worthy investment for any kitchen with large quantities of foodstuff and plant materials to be stored. The idea time of season to harvest most herbs is just when the flower buds are forming, but just before they open. The best time of day is in the morning when the dew has dried off the leaves and there is no moisture clinging to the plant. The volatile oils will be at their best this time of day.

To insure that the plant material is clean, hose them down the evening before you plan to harvest, gently spraying away any dirt which clings to the leaves.

As much as 50% from one picking may be harvest from an annual plant by snipping the stem at least 4 inches up from the ground, yet still above active growth. In time it will grow back and give you a second harvest before summer's end. In some cases, even a third.

With perennial plants, no more than one-third should be taken. In the case of some plants only the growing tips can be harvested.

To maintain the vigor of your plants, it is vital to have at hand either good sharp shears or a knife when harvesting. Pulling at the plants with the fingers does damage to the root systems and will make itself evident the following season by poor growth patterns. If you plan to harvest roots, they must be cut into small portions and dried using one of the mechanical means to insure proper dehydration before storage.

The following chart will specify which part of the plant to harvest and when it should be done.

Harvest Chart

AA = as available BF = before flowering WB = while in bud stage WF = while flowering D = dried (precedes F, L, R, or S)

F = flower L = leaf R = root S = seed X = whole form

NOTE: Roots are dug in fall after 1 or 2 frosts.

HERB	PART USED	HARVEST	STORE		HERB	PART USED	HARVEST	STORE
Angelica	S	AA	DS		Lemon Balm	L	BF	DL
	R	Fall of 1st year	DR		Lovage	L, stems	WF	DL, D-stems
	L, stems	BF	DL, D-stems			S	AA	DS
Anise	S	AA	DS			R	fall	DR
Anise Hyssop	L	BF	DL
	F	WF	DF		Marigold, Lemon Gem	petals	AA	Use fresh
					Marigold, Tarragon	L	AA	DL
Basils	L	AA	DL		Marjoram	L	BF, WF	DL
Beebalm	L, F	WF	DL		Marjoram, Sweet	L	BF, WF	DL
Blackberry	L	BF	DL		Mints	L	BF, WB	DL
Boneset	F, L	WF	DF, DL		Motherwort	L, flowering tops	WF	DL & tops
Borage	F, L	WF	DF, DL		Mugwort	L, stems	WB	DL, D-stems
					Mullein	F	AA	DF
Calendula	F	WF	D petals			L	AA	DL
Catnip	L	BF, WF	DL
Chamomile	F	WF	DFX		Nettle, Stinging	L	BF	DL
Chickory	R	Fall	DR
Chickweed	Plant	WF	D plant		Oregano	L	BF, WF	DL
Cilantro	L	AA	Use fresh
Clover, Red	F	WF	DFX		Parsley	L	AA	DL
*Comfrey	young growing tips	BF	DL		Pennyroyal, Eng.	L	WB	DL
	R	Fall	DR		Pumpkin	S	AA	DS
Coriander	S	AA	DS		*Pyrethrum, Dalmation	F	WF	DF
Costmary	L	BF	DL
Dandelion	L	AA	DL		Raspberry, Red	L	WF	DL
	F	spring	Use fresh		Rosemary	F, L	AA	DF, DL
	R	fall	DR
Dill	L, S	AA	DL, DS		Sage	L	BF, WF	DL
					Sage, Pineapple	F, L	BF, WF	DF, DL
Echinacea	R	Fall of 2nd year	DR		Savory	L	BF	DL
Elderberry	F	WF	DF		Selfheal	Plant	WF	D-plant
Elecampane	R	Fall of 2nd year	DR		Skullcap	Plant	WF	D-plant
Ephedra	plant	WF	D plant		Southernwood	L	BF, WF	DL
Evening Primrose	F, L	WF	DF, DL		Speedwell	Plant	WF	D-plant
					Sweet Cicely	L	BF	DL
Fennel	S	AA	DS			S	AA	DS
Feverfew	F, L	WF	DF, DL			R	Fall	DR
					Sweet Woodruff	L, soft stems	BF, WF	DL, D-stems
Hops	Female strobiles	When amber brown	D strobiles
Horehound	L	WB	DL		*Tansy	F, L	WF	DF, DL
Horseradish	R	Fall aft. 1 or 2 frosts	DR, or use fresh		Tarragon	L	Early & late summer	DL
Hyssop	L	WF	DL		Thymes	L	WF	DL
.
Lady's Bedstraw	R	Fall	DR		Valerian	R	Fall	FR, DR
Lady's Mantle	F, L	WF	DF, DL		Violet, Sweet	F, L	BF, WF	DF, DL
Lavender	F in full bud stage	WB	D bud
					Yarrow	F, L	WF	DF, DL
*Indicates a plant not meant for internal use. The term plant refers to the above ground portion of the plant.

DRYING

A simple process which brings our twenty-first century minds in touch with history. Grandma used the rafters in the attic, or a back room on the north side of house, to dry her herbs. Her home was her place of work and every space was utilized. An area with low light and an open window for ventilation is all that is required. Air conditioning is a bonus as it speeds the drying process by removing humidity from the air.

Dry the leaves right on the stems. When you have gathered your material, wrap a string or elastic band around the bottom of the stems and hang upside down to dry. Overhead rafters (shades of Grandma) are ideal, but a pushpin stuck into a back wall works well too. It is preferable to bundle the stems in small quanities as they will dry more quickly. By the time a large bundle is sufficiently dried, it has usually collected more dust than you would care to eat. Either that, or gone moldy.

Another method is to place the plant material loosely in a paper sack into which a good number of holes have been punched in the sides for ventilation. Tie the top with a string and hang to dry. This serves to keep the dust from the plant material and allows for something suitable for labeling.

Always attach some type of label or identification to your drying material.
Once dried it can be extraordinarily difficult to distinguish between one herb and another.

Yet another method ideal for small amounts is to place the plant material into a wicker or plastic open-weave basket which is lined with a paper towel. Place on a side table out of direct light and 'fluff' the contents from time to time to prevent settling.

Once dried, leaves are easily removed by stripping them from the stems. One exception is thyme. It can be tedious to strip its tiny leaves, so the dried stems and leaves are both ground for use. Try it both ways and see which you prefer.

To harvest seeds, such as dill, place a paper bag over the seed head, then snip from the plant. You should attempt to get the seeds just before they have turned completely dark, and they are still attached to the plant. Once they begin falling, they go rather quickly. If a few seeds fall from the head when it is gently tapped, then it is time to harvest.

If you plan to harvest a great deal of plant material, check your owner's manual for your oven. If your electric oven can maintain a temperature of between 80°F and 90°F, then you will be able to dry your herbs by placing them in a single layer on a cookie sheet. The herb is dry and ready for storage when the leaves crackle between your fingers.

Ideally, you should invest in a dehydrator if you plan to store a great many herbs. This is almost essential for roots (the roots will need to be cut up into small pieces, or sliced thin). It also makes the whole harvest ready for storage in a very short time. Try to get one that will operate without heat (air flow only - essential for things like lemon balm) or has a thermostat (set at the lowest setting).

Replace your dried herbs with a fresh harvest each year. Although there are a few special exceptions to the rule, after one year they begin to deteriorate in flavor and potency.

Most herbs can be placed in plastic bags and fresh frozen. Basils will develop a dark color, but the taste will be unaffected. Use as you would fresh herbs.

One final method for drying delicately flavored herbs such as chives or salad burnet involves the use of your frost-free refrigerator. Lay the blades of chives on a plate and place in refrigerator UNCOVERED. If you're familiar with the way uncovered produce dries out, you'll understand what's happening. Flavor isn't lost, but the chives will be "pseudo" freeze dried.

STORAGE

Your herbs would soon lose their value if not stored properly. Glass is the best storage container, and dark brown glass the ideal as it protects the contents from light. Dark brown iced tea jars made excellent storage containers.

Light and heat are stored herbs greatest enemy.

Store your herbs in a cupboard or closet set aside for this purpose. Even a portion of a cupboard away from heat and light will keep your harvest in top condition and ready for use.

Certainly nothing brings greater pleasure than being able to supply our own needs from Nature's storehouse. There is so much to enjoy during the course of the season. The beautiful sights of the gardens, the wonderful aromas and different textures of the various plants, and even the lulling sound of droning bees busily working the flowers. Herbs ensure good pollination of your vegetable and flower gardens as they attract so many of the natural pollinators. They also draw hummingbirds, butterflies and a wide assortment of birds who delight us with their songs and colors.

The second best experience is being able to hold onto this feeling all year round simply by lifting the cover on a jar of sweet smelling herbs and inhaling the fragrance and memories of last sumer while anticipating the joys of the next.

Melancholy cannot exist in an herb garden.

Harvesting and Drying Herbs

by James C Schmidt and Dianne Noland

Harvest time for an herb is best determined by the growing condition of the herb, rather than by a specific date or month. Most herbs are ready to be harvested just as the flower buds first appear. The leaves contain the maximum amount of volatile oils at this stage of growth, giving the greatest flavor and fragrance to the finished product.

To extend the use of herbs into the winter months , plan to harvest and dry various herbs during the summer and fall. Herbs should be harvested at the proper time of the day; early in the morning, just before the sun is hot. Their fragrance makes this early task quite enjoyable.

Annual herbs can be cut back quite severely during harvest. Using a sharp knife or pruning shears, cut just above a leaf or a pair of leaves, leaving 4 to 6 inches of the stem for later growth. However, if an annual herb is grown for it's seed, it should not be cut back and used for the leaves. In these cases, allow the plants to mature fully and then harvest them. Collect the seed heads when they are turning brown by cutting them from the plants and drying them on a tray made of very fine wire mesh.

Leafy perennial herbs should not be cut back as heavily as annuals. Only about one-third of the top growth should be removed at a time, and in some cases only the leafy tips should be removed. Careful pruning insures that new growth will be produced and a compact habit of growth maintained. Most perennial herbs will be ready to harvest just prior to or during the early part of July, with a second harvest possible in September in the cases of herbs such as tarragon and oregano. A sharp knife or pair of pruning shears are necessary tools when harvesting herbs.

The herbs should be fresh and clean before drying and storing, regardless of the method used to cure them. To clean, wash stems in cold running water and drain on paper toweling. The easiest way to dry herbs is to allow the leaves or entire stems to air dry at room temperature.

When drying whole branches or stems: first wash and dry, then gather 5 to 8 stems together and tie them into a bundle. Place the bundle into a brown paper bag with stems extending out the open end and hang in a dark warm place (70 to 80 degrees F). Depending on temperature and moisture, drying time will take 2 to 4 weeks. Tray drying is usually used for short-stemmed herbs or for individual leaves; an old window screen or smaller drying tray fashioned from 2"x2" lumber and screening usually works as a drying tray. The trays should be kept in a warm, dark place until the herbs are dry.

Silica Sand Drying is the same process as is commonly used to dry flowers. Silica sand draws the moisture out of the plant tissues and leaves them in their original shapes. Any container will do, as long as it is big enough to allow all of the plant materials to be covered with sand. The leaves should be clean and dry. Place a shallow layer of silica sand in the bottom of the container, then arrange herbs on top so they don't overlap; then cover with more silica sand and place container in a warm room. It will take 2 to 4 weeks until the herbs are thoroughly dried and can be removed from the sand for storage in glass jars.

An ordinary gas, electric or microwave oven can be used for quicker drying of herbs. Care must be taken, for herbs can't be dessicated too quickly at too high a temperature or much of the flavor, oils, and color of the herbs would be lost. When drying with a conventional oven: place the leaves or stems on a cookie sheet or shallow pan and warm at no more than 180 F for 3 to 4 hours with the oven door open. When using a microwave oven: place the clean stems or leaves on a paper plate or towel and set the control on high for 1 to 3 minutes; turn the stems over or mix the leaves every 30 seconds.

Store the herbs in airtight jars in a cool, dry place. If the entire stems were dried, remove the leaves and crush or crumble them in jars. The herbs must be completely dried or they will form mold. Keep the jars away from light and heat, as both will destroy the quality of the herbs.

There are many other methods of preserving herbs. Many herbs can be successfully frozen, and retain their freshness after being thawed. When freezing herbs, they must first be harvested and washed thoroughly. Blanch the herbs in boiling water for a minute or two, and then cool quickly in ice water. After draining, place the herbs in a package and freeze them. Some herbs, such as parsley, chives and basil can be pureed with a small amount of water in a blender, and then frozen in an ice cube tray. They can later be stored in plastic bags for use in flavoring soup and sauces.

Herb vinegars are an extremely popular use for home grown herbs. To make herb vinegar: place herbs in a jar or bottle and cover with white vinegar and secure with a tight lid, storing the bottle in a cool, dry place. After steeping for 4 to 6 weeks, the vinegar can be poured off into smaller bottles and capped.

Herb butter can be made with the addition of about 4 tablespoons full of dried herb leaves and a dash of lemon juice to 1/4 pound of butter softened at room temperature. The butter should then be stored in the refrigerator in a covered container.

Herb mustard is a mixture of 8 tablespoonsful of dry mustard, 8 tablespoonsful of salt and a teaspoonful of sugar with just enough vinegar to make a smooth paste. The mixture should then be divided into four portions; into each portion mix one table-spoonful of desired herbs.

Potpourri is a mixture of dried herbs and flower petals that preserves the aromatic fragrances of the summer months. Most potpourris start with dried roses and lavender as a base, to which other dried herbs are added. The herbs used depends on personal preference and availability; some popular choices include: sweet basil, lemon verbena, sweet marjoram, lemon balm, scented geranium, rosemary, thyme and mint. To make a potpourri: begin by mixing 4 to 6 cupfuls of various dried petals and leaves in a large bowl. Add a tablespoonful of whole cloves, cinnamon, or ginger. To blend the herbs and to make them last, add a fixative such as calamus root, benzoin or orris root. Only one ounce is needed per batch. The mixture should be stored in jars with tight-fitting lids, and be shaken or stirred occasionally. After 4 or 5 weeks, the potpourri mixture should be well blended and can be placed in ornamental canisters or sachets.

PARTICULAR HERB TYPES

Herb/Type* Harvesting and Preserving

Anise-(A)- The green leaves can be cut off whenever the plants are large enough. The seeds are ready when they turn brown. Wash In warm water, drain thoroughly, and allow to air dry.

Use: The leaves can be used in salads, soups, beverages, meats, game, and poultry. The seeds are used to flavor cakes, bread, and cookies. Leaves and seeds also add a delightful scent to sachets and pot-pourris.

Basil, Sweet-(A)- For fresh use, harvest the leaves as they mature-about 2 weeks after planting. For dry use, harvest leaves just before the plant blooms.

Use: One of the most popular herbs, used mainly with tomato and egg dishes, stews, soups, and salads, but also with many vegetable, poultry, and meat dishes.

Caraway-(B)- The seeds are harvested after they turn a gray-brown color. Scald the seeds in boiling water, then dry thoroughly.

Uses: Use the seeds in breads, cakes, cookies, potato salad, and baked fruit (apples, for example). Also can be used in Hungarian-type dishes, coleslaw, sauerkraut, cheese spread, meat stews, and fish casseroles.

Chervil-(A)- For fresh use, pick the tips of stems once a month. For dry use, harvest leaves just before the blossoms open. Dry on trays.

Uses: Use fresh leaves the same as you would parsley, such as in salads, salad dressings, soups, egg dishes, and cheese souffles.

Chives-(P)- Leaves can be harvested any time during the growing season. Cut them off close to the ground. Can be pureed with water in a blender and frozen in ice cube trays.

Uses: Chives add a mild onion-like flavor to dips, spreads, soups, salads, omelets, casseroles, and many kinds of vegetables

Coriander-(A) - The leaves, which are only used fresh, can be cut for seasoning as soon as the plants are 4 to 6 inches tall. The seeds can be harvested when the heads turn brown.

Uses: Coriander seeds smell and last much like a mixture of sage and orange and can be used in baking, poultry dressings, and French salad dressing. Much used in Chinese, Middle Eastern, and Latin American cuisine.

Dill-(A)- The fresh leaves can be harvested as needed and used as seasoning. Seed heads should be harvested then the seeds ripen to a light brown color.

Uses: Leaves and seedheads are most commonly used in the making of dill pickles. The leaves also add a characteristic flavor to salads, cottage cheese, soups, fish dishes, omelets, sauces, and vegetable casseroles. Dill seeds are sometimes used in pasteries, sauces, sauerkraut dishes, and for flavoring vinegar.

Fennel-(TP)- The leaves can be harvested and used fresh. Fennel seeds are harvested when the seed heads turn brown. Dry in a paper bag. Florence fennel is harvested when the bulbs are large enough.

Uses: The anise-flavored leaves and seeds of this herb are widely used in fish dishes, cheese spreads, and vegetable dishes. The leaves and stems can be used in much the same way as celery. Florence fennel bulbs are used in salads or as the main ingredient in a salad.

Lavender-(P) - The whole flower spikes are cut just before the florets are fully open and when color and fragrance are at their best.

Uses: Lavender is most often used in sachets, perfumes, and potpourris.

Lovage-(P)- Harvest young, tender leaves and use fresh. You can dry or freeze the leaves for later use.

Uses: Use the celery-flavored herb in soups, stews, potato salads, meat and vegetable dishes. It can also be eaten raw like celery. Its seeds are sometimes used in salads, candies, breads and cakes.

Majoram, Sweet-(A)- Cut back to 1 inch above the ground just before flowering; a second crop will form for later use. Easily dried or frozen.

Uses: Use Marjoram leaves with meat, poultry, vegetable dishes (especially green beans), potato salad, and egg dishes.

Mints-(P)- Harvest before flowering and use fresh or dried. Cut off near ground level. A second cutting can be harvested later on.

Uses: Used primarily for flavoring. The leaves are often put into teas and other beverages, as well as lamb sauces and jellies.

Oregano-(P)- Harvest and dry before flowering occurs.

Uses: Oregano imparts a sharper flavor than Sweet Marjoram. It is used to season spaghetti sauces and tomato dishes. Its flowers are attractive in summer arrangements.

Parsley-(B)- Snip young leaves just above ground level, as needed.

Uses: Use as a garnish in soups, salads, meats, and poultry.

Rosemary-(TP) - Harvest the young, tender stems and leaves, but avoid taking off more than one-third of the plant at one time. For drying, harvest just before the plant flowers.

Uses: A gourmet seasoning for meats, poultry dishes, and potatoes. Use either fresh or dried.

Sage-(P)- Harvest when just starting to flower and use either fresh or dried.

Uses: A commonly used seasoning for meats, stuffings soups, and salads.

Summer,Savory- (A)- You can gather young stem tips early, but when the plant begins to flower, harvest the entire plant and dry.

Uses: Used to flavor fresh garden beans, vinegars, soups, stuffings, and rice.

Tarragon,French- (P)- Harvest tarragon in June for steeping in vinegar. For drying, harvest in early to mid-July.

Uses: Often used in various sauces such as tartar and white sauce, and for making herb vinegar.

Thyme-(P)- Put leafy stem ends and flowers when plants are at the full-flowering stage. Use fresh, hang-dry, or freeze.

Uses: Used in combination with other herbs. Leaves can be used with meats, soups, sauces, and egg dishes.

*A=Annual B=biennial P=Perennial TP=Tender perennial

SOURCE:

"Harvesting and Drying Herbs"
by James C Schmidt and Dianne Noland
Department of Horticulture
University of Illinois at Urbana-Champagne
Cooperative Extension Service
College of Agriculture HM-1 

[Dept of PMM Artists & things]

Drying out Your Herbs

Dear Friends,

If you’re like me, you love the idea of using your own homegrown herbs in your rituals, or even just for incense in your home. Not only are they more convenient when you can simply go outside and pick your own, but you can also have easier access to those that are harder to find.

Herbs are generally very simple to take care of. They respond well to a variety of soil types and for the most part are pretty sturdy. They don’t require constant care like a lot of plants do and you can even plant them indoors in containers if you don’t have the outside space.

Of course, if you are going to be burning your herbs, or even cooking with them, you will need to dry them first. So at this point you might be wondering why I am devoting an entire blog entry on drying herbs, but the fact is that drying them out can be a complicated process.

The last time I picked a mess of sage and tried to let it air dry on my kitchen counter in a bowl it took over 3 weeks. No, I am not exaggerating. Not really convenient if you want to do a smudging ceremony in the next day or so.

So what are some better ways to dry out your herbs?

If you have herbs that have a low moisture content such as Marjoram, Bay, Rosemary, Dill, Oregano, and Thyme than letting them air dry isn’t a bad idea. However, for those that are dense in moisture such as Mint, Basil, Tarragon, and Chives the process is obviously going to take a bit longer and therefore might want to be reconsidered unless you have a lot of space and a lot of time (not Thyme!) on your hands.

Personally, I would recommend against using the microwave on them. Although this will definitely dry them out, it will also affect their taste and make them lose some of their nutrients. Freezing them is actually better, although I only use that as a last resort.

I prefer to bundle mine, although this will still take them some time. To bundle your herbs, take around 5 branches together and tie them at the bottom. You might need to pull off some of the bottom leaves first, as well as any diseased leaves. You can use a piece of yarn, string, or rubber band. If the herbs have a high water content then you might want to use small bundles.

I then take a paper bag (saved from the last trip to the grocery store) and use a hole puncher to cut a few holes in it. I always make sure that I write the name of the herb on the bag since I am prone to forget which ones I am dealing with, even after all these years.

Next, I take the bundle of herbs and place it upside down in the bag. Once I have done this, I tie the ends of the bag together and hang the bag upside down.

Of course, you don’t have to use the bag. In fact, you can simply tie the herbs in a bundle, use a clothesline or other long string and tie it around your ceiling, and hang your herbs from there. You want to make sure that you do this in an airy room, however, that gets plenty of air circulation. Keep in mind, too, that the herbs will shrink as they dry so you might have to keep re-tightening your string around them.

If you don’t want to hang your herbs up and instead wish to place them in a bowl and set them out then there are some things to keep in mind. First off, you have to ensure that they are getting equal airflow. This might mean that you turn them over every day and make sure that they are spread out evenly. You also want to ensure that they aren’t retaining water. If they do, then they might mildew and mold and you can’t use those.

Of course, if you really want to speed up the drying process then you can use a dehydrator. These don’t cost too much and they will definitely cut some time off of your drying. It’s also pretty helpful if you are drying a lot of herbs at once and you don’t want paper bag or bundles hanging up all over your house.

You will have to keep checking it and arranging them in order to regulate the airflow, but a good dehydrator can dry your herbs out in a matter of hours-not weeks or days.

Whichever method you choose to employ, I hope you have a fruitful herb harvest and I wish you luck in your own individual growing season.

Brightest Blessings,

Rose Ariadne
Your Warm and Caring “Resident Witch In Charge”